Pick through dry beans for any rocks or debris. Cover beans with 2 inches of water in a stock pot. Add a quarter onion (save remaining for other use), dried chili and crushed garlic.
Bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer, cover and cook until beans are tender, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
Remove and discard the onion, chili and garlic. You should have about 5 cups of cooked beans.
In a large skillet over high heat melt the lard.
Drain beans, reserving about a cup of the bean water. Add the beans to the skillet. Fry for several minutes, stirring.
Mash with the back of a spoon or potato masher. Add enough bean broth and continue mashing until your desired consistency. I like mine a little chunky and never purée in a food process. If you do, then by all means do it.
Season with some salt and black pepper if needed. Serve with crumbled Cotija or Queso Fresco cheese on top.
Video
Notes
I also enjoy the pinquinto beans if can find them. Rancho Gordo is the brand. They are small than pinto beans and creamier when mashed I feel. This recipe makes six cups cooked beans, drained. If each serving is 1/2 cup it can feed 12 as a side dish. Although serving sizes vary per person!
We are actually frying the beans and my little secret and why I really don't add much salt at all to my beans is that I use bacon fat that I save. That stuff is liquid gold people. Save it! It delivers a wonderful level of flavor to the beans. BUT if you don't like or eat bacon then use regular lard.